Friday, July 22, 2011

Big Highland Tour July


Guides: Ali, Jon & Richard
Customers: Connie, Deanna, Michael, Bertus, Robert, Annemieke, Natasza
Conditions: Great on the Cobbler and Ben Nevis, monsoon at Torridon

1 comment:

Conn Ryder said...

It’s been months since our July Big Highlands Tour, but I still find myself thinking about that experience. While the 14-day tour gave us a good sampling of the incredible beauty of Skye and the Scottish Highlands, it only left me wanting MORE! Our guides (Ali on day 1, Jon for the next 2 days and the incomparable Richard for the remainder of the tour) were able to keep us moving without being rigid, and shared stories and historical and geological facts, without sounding rehearsed. It felt laid back and our group seemed to develop their own collective rhythm and pace.

We had some warm and gracious hosts including: Reg at the Braemor B&B, who had a beautiful garden and a couple of very sweet Dachshunds; the salty Kevin at Duntulm Castle Hotel, who shared colorful stories and facts about the northernmost point of Skye; Nick at the Loch Maree Hotel, who was a wonderful chef and also delighted us by modeling his kilt; and Dougie at the Craigerne House Hotel who literally greeted us in the parking lot as we arrived.

Weather was for the most part on our side for the first several hikes. But wouldn’t you know the hottest day would be the day we climbed Ben Nevis??? Unfortunately, that was not the case when it was time to hike Coire Mhic Fhearchair when the rain was unrelenting and what we saw at the top was each other in close quarters, while huddled under a Bothy Bag . . . . which I can only describe as a gigantic shower cap that we placed over the top of us, while in a circle, and sat down in unison so as to capture the edges of the bag under our rumps, in order to provide a brief respite from the rain and to share a little body heat. But leave it to Bertus' quip on being in such close quarters to provide the big laugh of the day and lifting our spirits.

We came in close contact to plenty of sheep (including one that apparently didn’t want to let Natasia climb to the Duntulm castle ruins), the beautiful Highland cows, deer and even reindeer in the Cairngorms. Oh . . . . .and even a few amphibians that our resident scientist, Dede, was hoping to see.

All in all it was a great experience and one that I wouldn’t hesitate to do again. Thank you to Jon, our amiable organizer. Thank you to Ali, and to the eternal optimist, Richard, who was certain that on the worst weather days, the sun would come out any minute. Richard – your love of the Scottish wilderness is infectious!

To anyone considering this trip, my advice is to pay attention to the kit list on this website and don’t leave any items out. The weather conditions change within a day’s hike and you’ll need to add or subtract clothes to accommodate. Those pesky midges can show up when you least expect it, but I didn’t find them to be too much of a hindrance as long as I had bug repellant close at hand. And I highly recommend having trekking poles, particularly to those of you in my age group (50’s)because . . . .while I had never hiked with trekking poles before, I was grateful to have them first on Ben Nevis (descending on all the scree is tricky) and later just because repeated days of hiking was doing a number on aged knees.
But for sure . . .don’t miss out on this experience ! ! ! Kisses to my fellow hikers and to Jon, Ali & Richard. Thank you, Mike, for all your incredible photos.
Connie G.
Denver, Colorado